She sits down on the sidewalk and bites her bottom lip and spends the afternoon willing traffic lights to change.

On the weekend I took a trip to the village of Bahanaga with my friend and co-worker Prangya. I had a great time and I felt that I had to keep pinching myself to feel like it was really happening.

Train

The train ride from Bhubaneswar was about four hours and we had general tickets. This meant seating with no A/C. It was warm but bearable. At least we had seats. On the way home it was standing room only for a couple hours.

Bahanaga and Barikpur

We arrived at Prangya's home around 9:30pm in the middle of a scheduled power cut. Her mother was busy making us dinner and I was introduced to her brother, Jitu; the neighbour, Damayaanti; and Damayaanti's son, Babulu. In the village neighbors are like family and the two families cook and eat together everyday. All of the cooking is done on an open fire outside. They made me a mixed vegetable dish and some naan that night. It was really amazing. We spent some time visiting and got to bed around midnight. The family insisted I sleep in my own room (the house only has 3 rooms) so I thought it was very generous.

The next morning I woke up early and had a chance to look around the property. I was taken to the pond nearby where people swim and bathe. Luckily, Prangya's family had a make shift shower stall where I had privacy for my bucket shower... I just couldn't fully stand up in it.


Damayaanti while cooking breakfast.


Making friends with the calf.


Calf's mom.

Brushing my teeth was even an experience. Her brother Deepak (whom I have met a few times now) insisted that I try an all natural tooth brush that is basically a stick from a tree they called “dantakathi” in Oryia. So, I was instructed to chew one end of the stick until it was soft like a brush and used it to brush my teeth. The taste was bitter but apparently it is very good for your teeth.


Toothbrush prep.


Trying it out.

Before heading out on our long day we visited a temple that was near by and made some offerings.


Posing as instructed.


Priest.

We started our journey around 9am. We had rented a car for the occasion. I was taken to meet many friends and relatives in Bahanaga and Barikpur (a close by village where Prangya grew up). The villages are mainly dirt roads with mud huts that have straw roofs. Everyone I met was really interested in me and wished to shake my hand. I was told that I was the first foreigner to visit the village. I even had children following me around. The kids got a kick out of my camera and laughed when I would make faces at them. I found the curiosity of people in the village to be more genuine and friendly when compared to the menacing stares I get in the city. It was a welcome change of pace.


Babulu and Deepak.


Typical village dwelling.


Kids following me around.


Shy girls.

Panchalingeswar Temple

The first site of the day was Panchalingeswar Temple which is located in Nilagiri, Parbat at the top of a gorgeous hill. We hiked up the hill and took rest in the shade and bought snacks on the way. When we reached our destination there were people lined up and sticking their hands in to some water. Nearby there were priests making offerings to the god Shiva. Prangya and her family insisted that I line up to have a go at the water fall. This water fall has been flowing constantly for hundreds of years and when you reach in you are to find the five lingeswar (parts of the god Shiva). I reached in and felt around and found five distinct rocks. This meant good luck for me meaning that I get what I desire. (I suppose it is sort of like a wishing well.)


Feeling for the rocks.


Priests making offerings to Shiva.


View from the hill.

Jagannath Temple
Our next destination was the Jagannath Temple in Nilagiri. I entered the temple and followed suit of my company by hugging a large wooden post. This represents the guard of Lord Jagannath. Jagganath is the top god in Orissa and I got in trouble for not sitting properly to show respect. I had to switch to lotus position from having my legs stretched out in front of me. I was quickly forgiven of my ignorance. This temple is where we had lunch. We partnered up and shared plates because the amount of food was too much for one person. We sat on the ground and ate with our hands. I was laughed at for dropping rice all over myself. I was a good sport though.


Prangya and her mother.


Eating with my hands.

Chandipur Beach

Our last stop was a beach on the Bay of Bengal at Chandipur. The beach was vast and you could walk out into the water for a couple of kilometers. We walked pretty far and the deepest water was up to your ankle. It was beautiful.


In the water facing the shore.


Deepak, Prangya and Jitu.


Tiny crab guy covering his hole with sand.

When we got to shore we had snacks of Muri and Kurkure. We had to fend off goats for our snack. The goats hang out on the beach and pester people for food. They were pretty cute so we took turns feeding them.


Goat feeding.

On the way back from Chandipur we stopped for Dosas... the perfect end to a perfect day.

Song from title: Exiles Among You by The Weakerthans